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Professor Peptides
Research compound

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3 (pal-AHK)

Also known as Palmitoyl AHK · pal-AHK · Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3 · palmitoyl-Ala-His-Lys

Lipid-conjugated AHK; the delivery-optimised form of the hair follicle peptide

Last reviewed · Educational reference — not medical advice.

NCAHKX4 residuesN → C
  • Small / Pro
  • Hydrophobic
  • Polar
  • Acidic
  • Basic
Primary sequence, N → C, by residue class.
Half-life
Not characterised in published human pharmacokinetic studies
Route
Topical
Status
Cosmetic ingredient — the palmitoylated analogue of AHK
Sequence
AHK (palmitoylated)
Mechanism
Delivers the AHK tripeptide motif into skin via increased lipophilicity from the palmitoyl chain. The parent motif, as the copper complex, is associated with dermal papilla cell proliferation and hair follicle elongation.
01

Overview

Palmitoyl AHK is the fatty-acid-conjugated form of the AHK tripeptide (Ala-His-Lys), applying to AHK the same delivery strategy that palmitoyl tripeptide-1 applies to GHK.

The rationale is straightforward and is the strongest thing that can be said for it: free AHK is hydrophilic and penetrates the stratum corneum poorly, and attaching a C16 palmitic acid chain increases lipophilicity so the conjugate partitions into the skin barrier. The underlying peptide has genuine ex vivo human hair follicle evidence behind it as the copper complex AHK-Cu, where it elongated cultured follicles and increased dermal papilla cell proliferation.

Identity caveat: no PubChem record could be matched to palmitoyl AHK under that name in this session, so unlike palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 — both of which have confirmed CAS numbers and formulas — the exact chemical identity of material sold under this name cannot be checked against a public registry. Buyers cannot verify what they are receiving, and INCI naming in this corner of the market is inconsistent.

The limiting factor for every topical peptide is delivery. Peptides are hydrophilic and relatively large, while the stratum corneum is a lipophilic barrier built to exclude exactly such molecules. A peptide that performs well in a fibroblast culture has not thereby been shown to reach fibroblasts through intact skin. Reviews of cosmeceutical peptides identify this permeability gap — not receptor pharmacology — as the principal open problem, and note that formulation strategies such as oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water emulsions are used to try to close it with uncertain success.

Research areasCosmetic peptide deliveryHair follicle biologyLipopeptide formulation chemistry
02

What the evidence shows

Separated by study type
HumanClinical trials and human studies
No controlled clinical trial isolating this ingredient was located. The parent AHK motif has ex vivo human hair follicle data as AHK-Cu.
AnimalRodent and other animal models
Not the primary evidence base.
In vitroCell and tissue studies
Evidence attaches to the parent AHK-Cu complex — dermal papilla cell proliferation and hair follicle elongation — rather than to the palmitoylated conjugate specifically.
03

Key studies & findings

2 studies
  1. 1

    The parent motif as AHK-Cu (10⁻¹²–10⁻⁹ M) stimulated human hair follicle elongation ex vivo and dermal papilla cell proliferation in vitro.

    2007Archives of Pharmacal Research, 2007 (opens in new tab)

  2. 2

    No PubChem record was retrievable for palmitoyl AHK under that name in this session, in contrast to palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and tripeptide-5, which both returned confirmed formulas and CAS numbers.

    PubChem name search, no match

04

Benefits & effects

1 documented
  • Improved skin partitioning relative to unmodified AHK

    Verified
05

Side effects & safety

Safety noteCosmetic ingredient used topically in finished formulations. Injecting cosmetic peptides is not an established route, has no supporting safety data, and is not a use these ingredients were characterised for.

Recorded in the cited literature No confirmed chemical registry identity located · No ingredient-isolated clinical safety data located.

No specific adverse events have been compiled for this entry. Absence of data is not evidence of safety.

06

Limitations & open questions

No confirmed chemical registry entry was located under this name, so material identity cannot be verified against a public reference — a meaningful difference from the other palmitoylated peptides catalogued here. All biological evidence belongs to the parent AHK-Cu complex rather than to this conjugate, and no controlled clinical trial isolating this ingredient was located.

07

Pharmacology

Palmitoyl AHK is the N-palmitoylated form of Ala-His-Lys. No PubChem entry was retrievable under this name in this session, so molecular formula, weight and CAS number are not stated here rather than guessed.

08

Frequently asked questions

How does palmitoyl AHK differ from plain AHK?

A 16-carbon palmitic acid chain is attached to make it lipophilic enough to partition into skin. The peptide portion is the same Ala-His-Lys.

Does it have its own research?

Not that was located. The hair follicle and dermal papilla evidence belongs to the copper complex AHK-Cu. The palmitoylated form is a delivery variant.

Why is the identity caveat important here?

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 both have confirmed CAS numbers and PubChem entries you can check material against. Palmitoyl AHK did not return one, so there is no public reference to verify a purchase against.

09

Citations

2 sources
  1. 1
    The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro (opens in new tab)Pyo HK, Yoo HG, Won CH, Lee SH, Kang YJ, Eun HC, Cho KH, Kim KH (2007) · doi:10.1007/BF02978833
  2. 2
    Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmeceuticals — A Review of Skin Permeability and Efficacy (opens in new tab)Zdrada-Nowak J, Surgiel-Gemza A, Szatkowska M (2025) · doi:10.3390/ijms26125722